Coyote Cafe

Mark Miller made his bones with the Coyote Cafe at the original location in Santa Fe. He brought appreciation of New Mexican cooking to the rest of the nation who thought of "Mexican" cuisine as a Tex-Mex platter of gloppy enchiladas, beans and rice with a cover of chopped lettuce and tomatoes and a splash of inane salsa.

He taught a lot of us about chiles and what the various types could bring to the table. Like wine, the variations are incredible. But, like so many good things, the moment passed and Miller's flair faded.

About a year and a half ago, executive chef Eric Destefano took over and the Coyote is back. Eric has been a well respected fixture in Santa Fe for quite a while with the venerable Geronimo on Canyon Road. That remains a classic fine dining establishment. But Coyote lets some of the stuffiness out and offers flexibility for a more adventurous crowd.

Last night started with a "Surf and Turf" appetizer of yellowfin tuna tartare and prime beef carpaccio. Fantastic. I had a foie gras and seared tuna on polenta first course. Equally magical.

Then an elk tenderloin and a braised short rib main. Both  were well done, well plated and simply excellent.

Wine was a Sutcliffe Vineyards Syrah from, of all places, Cortez CO. Better after being open for an hour at the end of the meal, but surpising considering the source. Good stuff!